Somewhere along the Andaman coast, we did something that I would once have thought completely crazy: we left our wallets, car keys, and phones right on a shirt on the open beach, and casually disappeared into the waves for two hours. It didn’t even cross our minds to worry. Now, you could argue we’d been […]
While the Thai lowlands swelter in stifling heat, cool winds carry mist across alpine meadows studded with wildflowers and long-trunked pines. Phu Soi Dao is not at all the kind of destination most people associate with Thailand, but ever since I’d read a feature about it in a local newspaper, we’d been planning a trip
Phu Soi Dao: Guide to Thailand’s Stunning Alpine Wilderness Read More »
Walking Away It felt like a crisis. Government policy had shifted, pushing us past an ethical boundary we refused to cross. Staying in our jobs was no longer an option. Yet looking back, I’m strangely grateful for that push. It stripped away the status quo and forced us to radically reevaluate our lives. With the
A narrow, 300-kilometer province whose mountains divide the Isan Plateau from the rest of Thailand, Phetchabun is the definition of a borderland. Reaching it requires at least a four-hour drive from any of Thailand’s major cities, but its isolation makes it all the more worth visiting. Jump Ahead We were heading north to Loei and
Phetchabun: Discovering Thailand’s Forgotten Borderland Read More »
With striking shapes and colors perfect for filmmakers and Instagram feeds, the mangrove estuaries and limestone karst islands of Phang Nga Bay have become an essential stop on almost every Southern Thailand itinerary. With that popularity comes crowds, however, so while you’ll likely be sharing the experience with a lot of other people, it’s still
How to See Phang Nga Bay & James Bond Island (Without the Crowds) Read More »
The usual approach in travel writing is to claim you’ve uncovered some secret place that you’re now sharing with the world for the first time. This time, I’m the outsider. Jump Ahead In our first two years in Thailand, we treated Rayong as an easy weekend getaway when we didn’t have the time or energy
Finding Thailand’s best diving and snorkeling requires traveling a bit. Near the maritime border with Myanmar, the Surin Islands offer some of the country’s most beautiful reefs, excellent visibility, and smaller crowds than better-known spots like the Similan Islands or the southern Andaman Sea. But to experience the Surin Islands at their best, staying at least one night—more if
During a ten-day road trip from Bangkok to Phang Nga and back, we figured we’d take a break from Ranong hostels and Surin Island bungalows with a stay at a big-name resort. I had points to burn, and it was close to a surf school where Isobel was taking a class. Big mistake. I can’t
They could smell blood before Kat had even taken her seat at the collapsible card table. The women gathered around, producing tiny plastic bags filled with glinting rubies, spinels, emeralds, and sapphires, sliding a few choice stones across the table for Kat to inspect. They waited for her to name a price. For dealers at Chanthaburi’s
Family Guide to Chanthaburi: Rubies, Red Ribbons, and Holy Footprints Read More »
Why Visit Koh Phra Thong Koh Phra Thong is one of Thailand’s largest islands, and one of its least known. Which is really strange, because places like this don’t usually stay secret for long. I’m not surprised that Koh Bulone or even Koh Libong slip off the radar. But for an island this big, with
Koh Phra Thong: Thailand’s Quietest Great Island Read More »