The borderlands between Thailand and Cambodia are homes to many dozens of archeological sites. The recent unfortunate hostilities between the two countries are often described in terms of the capture and recapture of temple-topped hills. Further from the border, and, at the time of writing, well away from the fighting, are two of the finest […]
Demons on the Volcano: A Family Journey to Phanom Rung Read More »
This post is the first in a four-part series exploring the Angkor Empire Loop. We’re traveling through Thailand’s Isan region to uncover ancient temples that reflect the glory of Angkor Wat—minus the crowds. Follow along as we journey from the butterfly-filled forests of Pang Sida to Phanom Rung, the temple crowning an extinct volcano in Buriram. I lived in
Finding Pang Sida’s Butterflies on the Road to Isan Read More »
Koh Ngai, Koh Muk, or Koh Kradan: If you can pick only one, which should it be? Just a short longtail boat ride from the coast of Trang lies a chain of islands that checks every box of the ideal Thai escape: white sands, turquoise waters, and deep green jungle. The three most famous—Koh Ngai,
Trang Islands Triage: Which One Is Best for Families? Read More »
Ratchaburi is too often just a place Bangkokers drive through on their way to the beach towns of the Thai Riviera. Guilty of doing exactly that a dozen times, we decided to extend a weekend visit to the Tha Chin River and venture deeper into this less-traveled province. We were right to suspect we’d
Puppets, Peaks, and Paranoia: A Weekend in Hidden Ratchaburi Read More »
This is the complete itinerary for our journey through the quieter corners of Northern Thailand. See below for full details, with links to in-depth descriptions of individual stops to help you decide what’s right for you. Click on any of the following for deeper looks at Lampang, The Sky Pagodas, Phu Langka, Nan, and Thansawan
Ten-Days Driving the Northern Highlands of Lampang and Nan Read More »
Travel writers in Thailand throw the term “gem” around liberally. This is entirely excusable in a country that is indeed studded with jewels, but knowing when something is genuinely special and worth a detour can be harder. Thansawan Waterfall in Doi Phu Nang National Park is one of these rare finds. An arc of wild cascades
Thansawan Waterfall: A Turquoise Gem in Doi Phu Nang NP Read More »
Tucked into the far northeastern corner of Thailand, Nan Province lies well beyond the usual travel circuits. It is a long, green valley hemmed in by high mountain ranges on either side, with the Nan River meandering gently through the lowlands between them. At the center of it all sits the ancient city of Nan,
Nan, Thailand: Temple Murals, Rice Fields, and the Pleasure of Taking It Slow Read More »
The iconic image of a limestone block floating above a sea of mist in a mountain valley appears again and again in Thailand travel literature. And for good reason: it’s an incredibly evocative scene, one that perfectly captures the atmosphere of Thailand’s northern highlands. The trouble is, almost nobody knows what it’s called or where
We left Lampang early the next morning, driving about 90 minutes north to reach Wat Phraphutthabat Sutthawart. Our plan, and our strong recommendation to fellow travelers, is to begin the climb while the long path up the mountain is still in shadow. Even in Thailand’s coolest season, an exposed hike in direct sun can be punishing. Just
Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat: Everything You Need to Know Before You Climb Read More »
Lampang feels cool the moment you arrive, though explaining why is harder than it should be. Like most cool places, you recognize it long before you can name it. The Wang River and Kad Kong Ta, the main commercial street, give the town its shape. It’s the details that set Lampang apart, though: gingerbread woodwork of old
Lampang: Northern Thailand’s Most Effortlessly Cool City Read More »