This is the anchor post for our series on Northern Thailand. See below for our detailed itinerary, with links to detailed destination descriptions throughout. Click on any of the following for deeper looks at Chiang Dao, Chiang Rai, and Phu Chi Fa.
An 11-day road trip across Northern Thailand, from the Laotian border to the forests near Myanmar.
Laos to Myanmar – At a Glance
| Route | Phu Chi Fa → Chiang Rai → Chiang Dao → Pai → Chiang Mai |
| Duration | 11 days (extendable to 14) |
| Pace | Fast-moving, but well-suited for kids |
| Ideal for | Adventure · Nature · Culture |
| Highlights | Phu Chi Fa sunrise · Chiang Rai’s White, Blue & Black temples · Doi Luang waterfalls · Chiang Dao hill-tribe trek · Pai caves & hot springs · Doi Inthanon |
Too often, visitors treat Northern Thailand as a collection of day trips centered on Chiang Mai. You can build a great trip with that strategy, but spend a few nights outside the city gates of Chiang Mai and you’ll find mountain peaks piercing seas of morning cloud, limestone cathedrals lit by kerosene lanterns, and roads so winding they become a rite of passage.
We traveled this 11-day loop from the border of Laos to the ridgelines of Myanmar with our young family (kids aged 5, 3, and 1), but it would suit any traveler who wants to alternate nights in the real jungle with the comfort of the occasional boutique “reset” whenever the opportunity might present itself.
What follows is the exact route we took, the curves we survived, and the stygian depths we explored. As always, contact us for any specific questions or advice that might help as you build your own Northern Thailand adventure. We’re absolutely here to help.
Some links below are affiliate links. At no extra cost to you, we earn a small commission if you make a booking, which helps us keep our family on the road. Thank you for your support!
Itinerary Overview
| Day | Primary Destination | Activity Focus | Overnight Stay |
| Day 1 | Phu Sang | Phu Sang “Warm” Falls and Ridge Drive | Ukrist Farm Hill |
| Day 2 | Chiang Rai | Phu Chi Fa Sunrise and Chiang Rai’s “Big Three” Temples | Mora Boutique Hotel |
| Day 3 | Chiang Rai | Royal Gardens and Tea Plantations | Mora Boutique Hotel |
| Day 4 | Chiang Mai | “Wild Solitude” at Phu Kaeng Waterfall | Secret Garden House |
| Day 5 | Chiang Dao | Golden Temples and Sticky Waterfalls | Marisa Resort |
| Day 6 | Mae Chon | Chiang Dao Treks and Hill Drive Villages | Palong Homestay |
| Day 7 | Pai | Mok Fa Waterfall and Transfer to Pai | Pura Vida Pai Resort |
| Day 8 | Pai | Tham Lod Rafting, Ban Cha Bo Noodles, and Mo Paeng | Pura Vida Pai Resort |
| Day 9 | Chiang Mai | Hot Springs and Bua Tong Sticky Falls | The Chiang Mai Old Town Hotel |
| Day 10 | Chiang Mai | Doi Inthanon: The Roof of Thailand | The Chiang Mai Old Town Hotel |
| Day 11 | Bangkok or Beyond | Doi Suthep and Final Temples Farewells | Home |
Day 1: Arrival in Chiang Rai and Phu Sang National Park
Our first stop lies high in the Phi Pan Nam Range, the line of mountains that separates Northern Thailand from Laos. Reaching this remote range requires just under two hours’ drive from Chiang Rai, but we take a break at Phu Sang National Park to view its waterfall.
Day 1 Schedule: Phu Sang National Park
| Time | Activity/Logistics |
|---|---|
| 1:00 p.m. | Arrive at Chiang Rai Airport. |
| 1:30 p.m. | Drive to Phu Sang National Park (96 kms, 1 hr 45 mins). |
| 3:15 p.m. | Swim in the warm waters of Phu Sang Waterfall. |
| 4:15 p.m. | Drive to Ukrist Farm Hill (42 kms, 1 hr). |
| 6:00 p.m. | Dinner at Ukrist and early to bed. |
Accommodation: Ukrist Farm Hill
Ukrist Farm Stay This is a very convenient and comfortable spot not too far from the trailhead. Individual A-frame cabins offer great views over the valleys below. This stay is perfect for the early morning departure.
Day 2: Phu Chi Fa Sunrise and Chiang Rai’s Temple Trinity
A very early morning, but worth it to witness one of the most magical sights in Thailand: sunrise over Phu Chi Fa. After a slippery walk back down the mountain, transfer to Chiang Rai. There, we have the rest of the day to visit the White Temple, Blue Temple, and Black House. This is a town worth exploring any time, but it’s even better once the day trippers have all boarded the buses back to Chiang Mai.
Day Two Schedule: Phu Chi Fa and Chiang Rai
| Time | Activity/Logistics |
|---|---|
| 5:00 a.m. | Wake up, eat a quick snack while dressing. |
| 5:15 a.m. | Drive to the trailhead. |
| 5:30 a.m. | Begin the 760-meter hike up the mountain. |
| 6:10 a.m. | Watch the sun rise over Phu Chi Fa (actual time of sunrise varies according to the season). |
| 7:00 a.m. | Return to Ukrist for a full breakfast. |
| 8:00 a.m. | Drive to Chiang Rai (85 kms. 1 hr 45 mins). |
| 9:45 a.m. | Visit Wat Rong Khun (The White Temple) and the White Grotto. |
| 11:00 a.m. | Visit Wat Rong Seur Ten (The Blue Temple). |
| 12:00 p.m. | Lunch at Chivit Thamma Da Coffee House and Bistro. |
| 1:30 p.m. | Check in to hotel. |
| 3:30 p.m. | Visit the Ban Daam Museum (The Black House) |
| 5:30 p.m. | Dinner at Give Green Farmhouse |
Accommodation: Mora Boutique Hotel
Mora Boutique Hotel This small hotel’s stylish Lanna-inspired design and central location perfectly suited our two-day stay. A deep bathtub and a lovely pool made this a perfect quiet retreat after busy days exploring.
Day 3: Royal Gardens and Tea Plantations
We spend most of today outside Chiang Rai, visiting the Royal Gardens at Doi Tung and the tea plantations surrounding Doi Mae Salong. This is classic, quiet Northern Thailand. You’ll be high in the hills and may even need a jacket.
Day Three Schedule: Doi Tung and Choui Fong Plantation
| Time | Activity/Logistics |
|---|---|
| 7:00 a.m. | Breakfast at the hotel. |
| 8:30 a.m. | Drive to Doi Tung (51 kms, 1 hr). |
| 9:30 a.m. | Visit the meticulously landscaped Mae Fah Luang Garden and Royal Palace at Doi Tung. |
| 11:30 a.m. | Drive to Phu Chaisai for lunch (24 kms, 30 mins). |
| 12:00 p.m. | Lunch at Phu Chaisai’s koi pond or on the balcony overlooking the valley. |
| 2:00 p.m. | Visit and take afternoon tea at Choui Fong Plantation. Also possible to skip lunch at Phu Chaisai and head straight here after Doi Tung. |
| 3:00 p.m. | Return to Chiang Rai (40 kms, 1 hr). |
| 4:00 p.m. | Afternoon swim at the pool. |
| 5:30 p.m. | Dinner at Lum Lam on the Kok River |
| 6:45 p.m. | Provided you’re here on a Saturday, visit the Thanalai Road Night Market. |
| 7:00 p.m. | Watch the light show at the Chiang Rai “Chalermphrakiat” Clocktower. |
Accommodation: Mora Boutique Hotel
Mora Boutique Hotel This small hotel’s stylish Lanna-inspired design and central location perfectly suited our two-day stay. A deep bathtub and a lovely pool made this a perfect quiet retreat after busy days exploring.
Day 4: Doi Luang and Phu Kaeng Waterfall
Travel writers often describe a location as “remote,” as if the benefits of that description were self-evident. At Doi Luang National Park, seclusion is not some vague selling point, but the heart of the experience. Most days, you’ll arrive at an empty trailhead to Phu Kaeng waterfall, a simple parking lot with no stalls, stands, or services. You’ll enter truly wild jungle, where the only sounds are running water, bird song, and your own footsteps. At Doi Luang, “remote” means wild solitude.
Day Four Schedule: Doi Luang and Phu Kaeng
| Time | Activity/Logistics |
|---|---|
| 6:30 a.m. | Breakfast at the hotel. |
| 7:30 a.m. | Depart for Doi Luang National Park (68 kms, 1 hr 15 mins). |
| 8:45 a.m. | Hike to Phu Kaeng, enjoy the nine tiers of limestone terrace waterfalls. |
| 11:00 a.m. | Drive to Phayao for lunch (52 kms, 1 hr). |
| 12:00 p.m. | Lunch at Aurora Kwam Phayao or the equivalent. There is no shortage of charming lakeside restaurants in Phayao. |
| 1:30 p.m. | Drive to hotel on the outskirts of Chiang Mai (146 kms. 2 hrs, 30 mins). |
| 4:00 p.m. | Check in to hotel and rest overnight. |
Accommodation: Secret Garden House
Secret Garden Tucked away in a lush residential nook, this boutique retreat offers secluded luxury with private pools, personalized service, and a serene, “secret” escape from the city. On the outskirts of the city, this is a good staging ground for tomorrow’s Chiang Dao trip.
Day 5: Elephants and Golden Wats
Today we hand ourselves over to our guides at Green Trails, who will take us to an elephant sanctuary (though we’d always prefer to see them in the wild, but this Mae Sa Elephant Sanctuary appeared to be a very legitimate operation). After the sanctuary, you’ll be introduced to sticky waterfalls at Sri Sangwan and end the day at golden Burmese temples.
Note: While we had a guide to lead us through today’s activities, there is nothing in today’s schedule that you couldn’t do independently.
Day Five Schedule: Mae Sa Elephants, Sri Sangwan Waterfall, and Wat Phra That Doi Mon Ching
| Time | Activity/Logistics |
|---|---|
| 7:00 a.m. | Hotel pick-up from guides at Green Trail. Depart from hotel if traveling independently. |
| 8:00 a.m. | Visit Mae Sa Elephant Sanctuary. |
| 11:00 a.m. | Visit Mae Malai Market and have lunch. |
| 12:30 p.m. | Drive to Chiang Dao (97 kms, 1 hr 30 mins). |
| 2:00 p.m. | Swim at the sticky waterfall of Sri Sangwan in Pha Daeng National Park. |
| 3:30 p.m. | Visit Wat Phra That Doi Mon Ching and marvel at the golden Chedi and the hanging boulder. |
| 5:00 p.m. | Check in to hotel and rest overnight. |
Accommodation: Marisa Resort
Marisa Resort and Spa Popular with the trekking companies, this resort offers more amenities than the local farm stays, but also more variation in the quality of accommodation. Very quiet in the off-season.
Day 6: Chiang Dao Caves and Trek to Mae Chon Village
After breakfast, we head straight for the slightly eerie setting of the Chiang Dao Temple Caves. Be sure to arrange a visit with the kerosene lantern carrying guides into the darker chambers. Next, climb the 510 steps to Wat Tham Pla Pong. Plaques affixed to the trees bear Buddhist inscriptions that are more clichéd than profound, but reading them aloud is fun and breaks up the walk.
The trek begins after lunch. We meet our Dara-ang guide, who hacks a path through the monsoon-fed jungle as we walk towards Mae Chon village. It’s a steamy walk, but the guides are very good at motivating even the tiniest hikers with demonstrations of the mystery of the jungle.
Day Six Schedule: Chiang Dao Caves and Mae Chon Walk
| Time | Activity/Logistics |
|---|---|
| 7:00 a.m. | Breakfast at hotel. |
| 8:00 a.m. | Visit the Chiang Dao Temple Caves. |
| 9:30 a.m. | Climb 510 steps to Wat Tham Pla Pong. |
| 12:00 p.m. | Lunch in Palong Village. Prep for the trek with water and any needed snacks. |
| 1:00 p.m. | Hike from Pang Daeng Nai to Mae Chon Village through lush jungle and, closer to the village, the cultivated countryside. |
| 4:30 p.m. | Arrive in Mae Chon village and learn some Dara-ang words while relaxing with a drink. |
| 5:30 p.m. | Dinner in the village, overnight at Mae Chon homestay. |
Accommodation: Mae Chon Village Homestay
Day 7: Red Lahu Village, Mok Fa Waterfall, and the Drive to Pai
After an early wake-up courtesy of the local roosters, the trek continues through tamer countryside to a Red Lahu Village, where you’ll stop for tea. Lunch in nearby Phrao is followed by the drive to Pai. We break up the bendy road with a stop at Mok Fa Waterfall before arriving late afternoon at our destination.
Day Seven Schedule: Red Lahu Village, and a Stop at Mok Fa Waterfall en route to Pai
| Time | Activity/Logistics |
|---|---|
| 7:00 a.m. | Breakfast in the village. High likelihood of a local market being put on for your benefit. |
| 8:30 a.m. | Walk to the Red Lahu Village where you’ll enjoy some tea near the grounds of the local temple. |
| 11:30 a.m. | Drive to Phrao for lunch. |
| 12:45 p.m. | After lunch, the long drive to Pai begins. Don’t worry, it’s not that bad. The first stop is an eminently visitable waterfall (83 kms, 1 hr 30 mins). |
| 2:15 p.m. | Swim at the base of the Mok Fa Waterfall and drip dry while taking the upper path to the bat caves. |
| 3:00 p.m. | Continue drive to Pai, making stops at Witches Coffee Shop, 32 Coffee, or any of the other many rest stops along the way (81 kms, 2 hrs). |
| 5:00 p.m. | Arrive in Pai and rest overnight. If staying like we did at Pura Vida, let your hosts arrange a taxi into town for dinner. Na’s Kitchen is a good bet, but there are plenty of good options. |
Accommodation: Pura Vida Pai Resort
Pura Vida Resort These standalone bungalows are tucked into the rice fields north of town, trading bohemian chaos for bucolic charm. The garden villas have plenty of room for a family—and the charm of watching the valley turn that vibrant, monsoon green from our doorstep. Your hosts will happily arrange transport in and out of town.
Day 8: Warm Springs, Cold Caves, and Slippery Falls
Exploring the wonderful stops north of Pai is today’s objective. Wake up early to enjoy Sai Ngam Hot Springs at their very best. Come too late and you risk sharing a muddy watering hole with hungover backpackers. Further up the road, we arrive at Tham Nam Lod, a geological miracle in which a river springs fully-formed from the mouth of a cave. Explore the vaulted chambers of the cave via bamboo raft and, if water levels are low enough, other marvels await.
From the caves, we continue north on the gorgeously scenic Highway 1095, arriving at Ban Cha Bo, a village home to the Black Lahu hill tribe. This ridgetop village is famous for its stilt-legged restaurants and coffee houses, which offer excellent mountain views. The last stop is Mo Paeng Waterfall. The monsoon-powered stream emerges from a jungle hillside before splitting into braided channels that cascade over a large granite outcrop. The falls end in a deep, swimmable pool.
Day Eight Schedule: Sai Ngam Spring, Nam Lod Cave, Dangling Leg Noodles, and Mo Paeng Falls.
| Time | Activity/Logistics |
|---|---|
| 7:00 a.m. | Breakfast at the hotel. |
| 8:00 a.m. | Drive to Sai Ngam Hot Spring(16 kms, 30 mins). Leave even earlier if you want to ensure solitude. |
| 8:30 a.m. | Relax in the spirit-clear waters of the Sai Ngam Spring. |
| 9:30 a.m. | Continue north on Highway 1095 towards the caves (40 kms, 1 hr). |
| 10:30 a.m. | Enjoy a visit to the spectacular, slightly Stygian, Tham Nam Lod. |
| 12:45 p.m. | After the caves, a short drive (22 kms, 30 mins) to Ban Cha Bo for lunch and views at the Noodle Soup House. |
| 1:30 p.m. | Return to Pai (55 kms, 1 hr 15 mins) with a stop for a swim at Mo Paeng Waterfall. |
| 4:00 p.m. | Return home for a rest before dinner or, if energy allows, walk the two kilometers and 353 steps to the White Buddha (Wat Phra That Mae Yen) and watch the sunset. |
| 6:00 p.m. | Stroll the Walking Streets centered at the junction of Chaisongkran and Raddamrong roads. Plan for dinner here or anywhere in the vicinity |
Accommodation: Pura Vida Pai Resort
Pura Vida Resort These standalone bungalows are tucked into the rice fields north of town, trading bohemian chaos for bucolic charm. The garden villas have plenty of room for a family—and the charm of watching the valley turn that vibrant, monsoon green from our doorstep.. Your hosts will happily arrange transport in and out of town.
Day 9: More Hot Springs and Sticky Falls
We transfer back to Pai today, but not without ensuring some interesting stops along the way. Highlights include the Pong Dueat Hot Springs which are far more thermally active than Sai Ngam, and the Bua Tong sticky waterfall, which is much taller and more extensive than Sri Sangwan. Come on, you’ve been training for this.
Day Nine Schedule: Pong Dueat Thermal Spring and Bua Tong Sticky Waterfall
| Time | Activity/Logistics |
|---|---|
| 8:30 a.m. | After breakfast, drive to Pong Dueat (61 kms, 1 hr 30 mins). |
| 10:00 a.m. | Explore the Pong Dueat Geothermal Park, have a soak in the (appropriate) hot pools. |
| 11:00 a.m. | Continue drive towards Chiang Mai (54 kms, 1 hr). |
| 12:00 p.m. | Lunch |
| 1:30 p.m. | Drive to the Bua Tong Waterfall (26 kms, 30 mins). |
| 2:00 p.m. | Explore the wonderous sticky falls of Bua Tong. They’re quite a lot of fun for kids (or anyone, for that matter). |
| 3:30 p.m. | Return to Chiang Mai (58 kms, 1 hr). |
| 4:30 p.m. | Check into hotel and enjoy the evening in Chiang Mai. |
Accommodation: Chiang Mai Old Town Hotel
The Chiang Mai Old Town Hotel Tucked inside the city’s ancient walls, this boutique sanctuary offers a peaceful family reset. Steps from golden temples and night markets, it’s the perfect base for exploring Chiang Mai’s vibrant historic heart. A straightforward Italian restaurant on the hotel grounds offers a nice change for when you’ve been on the road for the last week straight.
Day 10: Chiang Mai Peaks and Valleys
On our final full day before departure, we travel to the top of Doi Inthanon and have the rare experience of feeling the cold in Thailand. A walk through Ban Mae Klang Luang and hot teas and coffees at the roasters warm us right back up.
Day Ten Schedule: Doi Inthanon and Ban Mae Klang Luang
| Time | Activity/Logistics |
|---|---|
| 7:00 a.m. | Breakfast at the hotel. |
| 8:00 a.m. | Drive to Doi Inthanon (103 kms, 1 hr 45 mins). |
| 9:45 a.m. | Visit the summit of Doi Inthanon and enjoy a walk around the highest point in Thailand. |
| 10:30 a.m. | See the two Royal Chedis. |
| 11:00 a.m. | Shop at the Hmong market. |
| 12:00 p.m. | Lunch at a local restaurant. |
| 1:00 p.m. | Begin walking the Pha Dok Siew Nature Trail en route to Ban Mae Klang Luang Village. |
| 3:00 p.m. | Coffee for us and sugary teas for the kids at a roasters in Ban Mae Klang Luang. |
| 4:00 p.m. | Visit the roaring Vachirathan Waterfall. |
| 4:30 p.m. | Drive back to Chiang Mai (82 kms, 1 hr 30 mins). |
| 6:00 p.m. | Dinner in town and evening free to enjoy a last night in the city before flying out the next morning. |
Accommodation: Chiang Mai Old Town Hotel
The Chiang Mai Old Town Hotel Tucked inside the city’s ancient walls, this boutique sanctuary offers a peaceful family reset. Steps from golden temples and night markets, it’s the perfect base for exploring Chiang Mai’s vibrant historic heart. A straightforward Italian restaurant on the hotel grounds offers a nice change for when you’ve been on the road for the last week straight.
