Northern Thailand

Limestone tiers of Phu Kaeng Waterfall in Doi Luang National Park, Chiang Rai. Long exposure photo shows silky water flow and lush ferns.

The Wild Solitude of Doi Luang: Hiking Phu Kaeng Waterfall

Travel writers often describe a location as “remote,” as if the benefits of that description were self-evident.  At Doi Luang National Park, seclusion is not some vague selling point, but the heart of the experience. Most days, you’ll arrive at an empty trailhead, a simple parking lot with no stalls, stands, or services.  You’ll enter truly wild […]

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Thi Lo Su Waterfall: Wide view of Thailand's largest waterfall showing the misty, powerful tiers and muddy river basin during the wet season in Umphang.

Adventure in Umphang: Rafting the Mae Klong and Visiting Thi Lor Su, Thailand’s Largest Waterfall

We’ve visited dozens of waterfalls across Thailand over the years, but none are as dramatic or spectacular as Thi Lor Su.  The Klotho Creek spills over a ridge extending 400 meters, with dozens of individual falls forming a curtain of braided cascades.  When we visited at the end of the rainy season, the falls shrouded themselves in

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Winding road of Thailand's Umphang Highway (Death Highway) curving through misty jungle mountains.

Driving the Umphang Highway: How to Survive the 1,219 Curves

Viewing Thi Lo Su Waterfall and rafting the Mae Khlong River are among the most extraordinary natural wonders Thailand has to offer.  If you’re thinking of going, you already know the reason more people haven’t: the 1,219 curves of the ominously named “Death Highway.”  Even if you survive, someone’s probably going to vomit.    While proper

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