Southeast Asia

A wide-angle landscape photo of the towering, reddish-brown laterite cliffs of Pha Daeng beach in Bang Saphan Noi, Thailand, with a line of coconut palm trees along the top edge.

Gems of the Royal Coast: Bang Saphan, Koh Talu, and the Stunning Red Cliffs

If the Pranburi and Prachuap coast is quiet, the beaches to the south are simply, in the best possible way, deserted.  Abandon the main highway and instead drive along the patchwork of asphalt strips that form the Royal Coast Road; it is some of the finest coastal driving in the country. If you missed the first installment […]

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Thi Lo Su Waterfall: Wide view of Thailand's largest waterfall showing the misty, powerful tiers and muddy river basin during the wet season in Umphang.

Adventure in Umphang: Rafting the Mae Klong and Visiting Thi Lor Su, Thailand’s Largest Waterfall

We’ve visited dozens of waterfalls across Thailand over the years, but none are as dramatic or spectacular as Thi Lor Su.  The Klotho Creek spills over a ridge extending 400 meters, with dozens of individual falls forming a curtain of braided cascades.  When we visited at the end of the rainy season, the falls shrouded themselves in

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Winding road of Thailand's Umphang Highway (Death Highway) curving through misty jungle mountains.

Driving the Umphang Highway: How to Survive the 1,219 Curves

Viewing Thi Lo Su Waterfall and rafting the Mae Khlong River are among the most extraordinary natural wonders Thailand has to offer.  If you’re thinking of going, you already know the reason more people haven’t: the 1,219 curves of the ominously named “Death Highway.”  Even if you survive, someone’s probably going to vomit.    While proper

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Child snorkeling underwater in crystal-clear green water near a coral reef in Mu Ko Chumphon, Thailand.

The Coast is Clear: Guide to Mu Ko Chumphon’s Pristine Islands and Thung Ka Bay’s Eerie Mangrove Trails

The air gets warmer and the water clearer the further down the coast we travel.  By the time we reach Chumphon, universally known as the “Gateway of the South,” we’ve left Central Thailand behind and crossed into a new and distinctly different part of the Kingdom.     The food is spicier, the Southern Thai dialect is (for

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A family standing at the summit of Wat Khao Chong Krachok overlooking Ao Prachuap, each holding a long wooden stick for defense against the macaque monkeys.

Beyond Hua Hin: A Traveler’s Guide to the Unspoiled Thai Riviera (Pranburi & Prachuap Khiri Khan)

There’s an idealized version of coastal Thailand where sleepy fishing villages back onto broad, curved bays. The only sound: the gentle lapping of turquoise waters and the rustling needles of casuarina trees.  For miles on end, the only footprints are your own.   You’ll hear that the authentic Thailand vanished decades ago, swallowed up by resorts and beachside

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A child peering through large binoculars from the safari truck, looking out over the landscape during a wild elephant safari at Kui Buri National Park, Thailand.

Kui Buri: See Thailand’s Wild Elephants in Their Natural Habitat

Seeing an elephant in Thailand is easy.  Seeing one ethically is a different story.  An estimated 250-300 elephant camps are dotted along the country’s tourist trails, and many packages offer opportunities to engage with the animals.  I certainly don’t want to shame anyone for joining these: the reality is that more than 3,500 former working elephants require

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